preliminary secondary research
- Jasmine Ah Yong
- May 15, 2021
- 6 min read
Updated: May 19, 2021
secondary research attempt no. 1, feat. textile physics

If there is one thing I've learned during my high school career, it's that not everything deserves a planning phase and a rough draft and an edited copy and a final version. The amount of documents I've handed in or presented with '1.0' tagged on the end or 'rough' tagged on the beginning is frankly disturbing. Given that this is a long-term project that I am expected to track, I'm just going to keep everything here. So yes, I am publishing a lot of unrefined, messy content, because waiting to format things is really just a recipe for procrastination, and time only compounds the list of things I need to do.
**I always use ?? for things I want to look into so that I can easily ctrl+f to find them; they're not necessarily all questions**
textile physics: physical properties of textile physics (Morton, 1963)
some factors to consider:
fibre structure;
density;
moisture relations and effects;
mechanical, electrical, optical, and thermal properties; and
friction
physics of textiles (Treloar, 1977)
link to pdf (also uploaded to drive)
textile material properties
strength;
flexibility;
lightness
undergarments
structure of low density
wool, cotton (relatively short fibres) produce open yarn structure
loose fibre ends and general irregularity (crimp) of filaments
outer garments
important properties
resistance to tearing and abrasion
desirable draping and handling properties
resistance to creasing
stability of form (e.g. retention of pleats)
dependent on type of fabric structure and inherent properties of material
chemical properties of dyeing, laundering, and other processing
industrial yarns/fabrics: tire cords, conveyor belts, parachute materials, etc.
high impact strength and abrasion resistance
look into some of these for app??
basic mechanical properties
production: assembly of fibres into the form of a yarn; geometrical interlocking of the yarn threads
carding: initial separation and randomization of the fibers
drafting: drawing together of the fiber into a loose roving of approximately aligned fibres
spinning: filaments are compacted to form a dense, coherent structure
strength: function of frictional forces between the helically conformed fibers
inter-fiber friction is required to maintain coherent structure
twist is essential even in continuous-filament yarns to prevent disruption by lateral forces
packing density of filaments is higher in continuous-filament yarns than short-filament (staple) yarns
staple yarns have more softness and warmth
many continuous-filament yarns are unsuitable for textile applications
texturizing processes are being developed for continuous-filament yarn
false twist: twist is introduced and set with heat, then untwisted (like I said earlier, look into felting??)
mechanics of yarns and cords
maximum strain decreases progressively moving outwards
Hooke's law??
E_y=(E_f)cos^2(a_m)
E_y: modulus of the yarn
a_m: angle of outermost filament
E_f: modulus of the filament material
modulus decreases with increasing a_m (increasing twist)
tensile strength decreases with increasing twist??
discrepancies in this trend become more pronounced with increasing values of strain??
proposed reasoning: effects of transverse stresses, properties of material are not consistent with Hooke except at very small strains, changes in yarn diameter
J.W.S. Hearle??
stress-strain relations??
coaxial-helix model??
path of the filament is a helix of varying radius due to filament migration?? length of a filament increases with increasing distance from the yarn axis
in corded (plied) structures: strand will periodically disappear since each of the component plies must occupy the central or core position in the cord for some proportion of its length
if the rate of filament migration is relatively slow the properties of the yarn are negligibly affected
single yarns are mechanically unsymmetrical structures
torsional couple (??) can lead to snarling, etc.
multi-ply yarns are balanced due to initial and subsequent twist, so are typically used in systems subjected to high mechanical stresses
symmetrical cord structure
axis of each ply describes an identical helix about the axis of the cord
tortuosity: amont of twist
formation of the cord introduces additional tortuosity, but also impacts the length of the yarn axis
there is a large discrepency between theoretical and experimental values for three-ply cords, likely due to the distortion of the cross section of plies (mutual pressure in the contact region) which disturbs yarn geometry
fabric properties
mostly produced by weaving or knitting; both rely on geometrical constraints
felts and non-woven fabrics often lack flexibility due to high compression or adhesive bonding
factors to consider: tensile strength, abrasion resistance, extensibility, flexural rigidity, retension of creases, optical appearance, thermal transmission
plain-weave
governed by the two yarn diameters, the two thread spacings, and one of the two crimp angles
with load extension, removal of crimp in one direction is accompanied by an increase in crimp for those threads perpendicular
highly anisotropic system; for deformations in directions other than the thread directions, very different considerations apply
deformation occurs most readily in a 45 degree angle to the principal directions
creasing is related to the imperfect elasticity of fibers
fiber structure and properties
most textile fibers are partially crystalline organic polymers in which the molecules are preferentially aligned in a direction parallel to the fiber axis
on a weight basis, fibers are among the strongest materials known; a high-tenacity nylon filament has more than three times the strength of a steel wire of the same mass per unit length
the final properties of the fiber can be varied over a wide range by modifications of the spinning and drawing condition
higher degree of orientation achieved results in higher tensile strength lower extension to break
in industrial yarns, tensile strength is a primary objective; in textiles, high extensibility and lower modulus may be preferable
anisotropic properties
have greater strength in the direction of drawing than in the transverse direction
anisotropy arises from the disparity between the strong chemical bonds in the chain backbone structure of the molecule and the relatively weak van der Waals forces operating laterally between a given molecule and its neighbors
a difference amounting to a factor of about 50 would be expected between the longitudinal and transverse elastic moduli of a perfectly aligned system
not realized in a normal fiber as molecules are only imperfectly aligned
the tendency of highly drawn polymers to fibrillate is being exploited commercially for the production of the coarser grades of yarns and cords
fracture mechanics
mobility of the chain segments will decrease with decrease in temperature
application to fabrics
tear strength
marked increase in resistance to crack propagation can be achieved by the inclusion of crack barriers in the form of extra strong reinforcing yarns at regular intervals in the fabric structure
possible to raise the stress level from 35% to 82% of the static breaking stress for the uncut fabric
the textile industry is second only to the food industry when judged by the number of man-hours expended
important to factory operation, transportation system, conservation of energy, and clothing
not a lot of literature on this kind of stuff?? (come back and read this article later for review -- lots of interesting info)
tensile properties of textile material (textile physics - daffodil international university)
tenacity: the ratio of load required to break the specimen and the linear density of that specimen
tenacity = load required to break the specimen / linear density of the specimen
measured in gm/denier, gm/Tex, N/Tex, CN/Tex, etc.
breaking extension: the elongation necessary to break a textile material
breaking extension (%) = (elongation at break / initial length) * 100%
work of rupture: the energy required to break a material or the total work done to break that material
measured in Joules
initial modulus: the tangent of the angle between the initial curve and the horizontal axis is equal to the ratio of stress and strain
tan a = stress / strain
work factor: the ratio between work of rupture and the product of breaking load and breaking elongation
work factor = work of rupture / (breaking load * breaking elongation)
work recovery: the ratio between work returned during recovery and total work done in total extension
total extension = elastic extension + plastic extension
total work = work required for elastic extension + work required for plastic extension
elastic recovery: the power of recovery from a given extension
depends on the type of extension, fiber structure, types of molecular bonding, and crystalline of fiber
total extension = elastic extension + plastic extension
elastic recovery (%) = (elastic extension/ total extension) * 100%
plastic recovery = (plastic extension / total extension) * 100%
stress-strain curve: when fiber is deformed, it follows the stress-strain curve
linear region: follows Hooke's law; fiber returns to its original position after removal of load
elastic region
deformation is called elastic deformation
plastic region: the chain breaks but the fibers do not break
yield point: the point between the linear and plastic region
yield stress: stress at yield point
yield strain: strain at yield point
deformation is called plastic deformation
breaking point: the fiber breaks
breaking load: the load required to break a specimen
creep: when a load is applied, an instantaneous strain occurs, but the strain will decrease with time
temporary creep: recoverable, textile material comes back to its original position after removal of load, elastic extension occurs, polymer chains slightly stretch
permanent creep: non-recoverable, textile material does not come back to its original position after removal of load, plastic extension occurs, polymer chains break
tensile properties depend on the material and its condition (the chemical and mechanical treatment to which it has been subjected, the amount of moisture it contains, the temperature it is at), and the arrangement and dimension of the specimen
methods of tensile experiment
constant rate of loading: uses container and water flow to increase load gradually; loading causes elongation
constant rate of elongation: uses a screw mechanism; elongation causes loading
yarn geometry
ideal yarn:
circular in cross-section and uniform along its length
each fiber follows a uniform helical path around one of the concentric cylinder so that its distance from the yarn axis remains constant
a fiber at the center will follow a straight line of the axis (so assuming core spinning??)
number of filaments crossing the unit area is constant (constant density of packing)
every filament has the same amount of twist per unit length
consists of very large number of filaments
yarn designation
yarn count
number of filaments
number of components in folding
direction and amount of twist (highly doubt z- vs. s-twist really makes a difference but maybe do one sample of comparison??)
number of components in cabling (could also experiment with cabled yarns?? this project has a ridiculous amount of planned samples at this point though)
fiber components
It is officially not Friday anymore, so I'm going to leave this here. It's given me a lot to think about, but I think I still have some more reading to do before doing any formal write-ups.
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